Today was the long awaited Monument Valley and Mystery Valley Navajo Tours. We left around 9am for an all day Navajo tribesman jeep tour of the iconic monuments within Monument Valley and then into the Navajo Reservation restricted areas of Mystery Valley. Tucked neatly into the middle of those two tours David, our guide, would do a hamburger cookout for us.
We began the day at the restricted areas of Mystery Valley. The 4 Corners Region was home to the Anasazi (meaning "ancestors of our enemies") people from 200 - 1300 A.D. They were ancient Puebloans and lived in a range of structures, including pit houses, pueblos and cliff dwellings. The Navajo people who now reside in parts of the former Pueblo territory were extremely fearful of Anasazi as their cultures began contact around 1200. Anasazi developed a brilliant form of farming within the desert called "Dry Farming" in which seed would be planted in areas near arroyos or drainage creeks. The Anasazi would watch for summer monsoons to develop, producing roughly 4 rain storms a year high up on the mesas north of the desert. When lightening and rain clouds were seen the Anasazi knew they had one hour before a huge water runoff would arrive deep into the valley. They utilized prepared flood gates to route water into their fields during which plants would receive water needed to produce a crop. Therefore the limited days of rain were never waisted but maximum benefit from each storm could be achieved. The reason for Navajo fear of the Anasazi was that the Anasazi practiced cannibalism and this obviously freaked out any Navajo considering a settlement nearby.
We began the day at the restricted areas of Mystery Valley. The 4 Corners Region was home to the Anasazi (meaning "ancestors of our enemies") people from 200 - 1300 A.D. They were ancient Puebloans and lived in a range of structures, including pit houses, pueblos and cliff dwellings. The Navajo people who now reside in parts of the former Pueblo territory were extremely fearful of Anasazi as their cultures began contact around 1200. Anasazi developed a brilliant form of farming within the desert called "Dry Farming" in which seed would be planted in areas near arroyos or drainage creeks. The Anasazi would watch for summer monsoons to develop, producing roughly 4 rain storms a year high up on the mesas north of the desert. When lightening and rain clouds were seen the Anasazi knew they had one hour before a huge water runoff would arrive deep into the valley. They utilized prepared flood gates to route water into their fields during which plants would receive water needed to produce a crop. Therefore the limited days of rain were never waisted but maximum benefit from each storm could be achieved. The reason for Navajo fear of the Anasazi was that the Anasazi practiced cannibalism and this obviously freaked out any Navajo considering a settlement nearby.
At a beautiful location within Mystery Valley, next to a huge cliff dwelling are ancient "pictograms" left by the Anasazi which depicts the disappearance of the Anasazi People back into the Mountain God. The pictures show human figures and the hands of Anasazi climbing up the mountain wall and then disappearing. Their "disappearance" was actually when the "pure" Anasazi ceased to exist due to the interbreeding and warfare with neighboring tribes, including Navajo. Pictograms are dated to 1400. |
Mystery Valley has no formal roads, only trails through the sandy desert terrain. Jeeps are a necessity especially when rains produce amazing amounts of standing water very quickly. The countryside is dotted with magnificent natural arches, rock formations, cliff dwellings and numerous sacred sites.
The trip through Mystery Valley was stunning. David was not sure why the valley was named "Mystery Valley" but possibly because when you leave you will have still more questions than answers! So true!! David's commentary on his Navajo culture was fascinating in its beliefs and connection to nature but also sorrowful for the "broken promises" heaped upon all Native Americans by the US Government. With all that has transpired in the last 2 centuries they have maintained the inspirational beauty of their culture. We would now head out into the portion of the Navajo Reservation known as Monument Valley. Finally a paved road for two miles and then some of the bumpiest roads I have ever seen in a National Monument!!! Monument Valley has been home to over 50 movies. 1939 saw the John Ford, John Wayne movie "Stagecoach" and it was no looking back!! "Rio Grande" - 1950, "2001: A Space Odyssey" - 1968, "Easy Rider" - 1969, "The Eiger Sanction" - 1975, "National Lampoons Vacation" - 1983, "Thelma and Louise" - 1990, "Forrest Gump" - 1993, and many more! The early years were filled with timeless classic western movies starring John Wayne, Harry Carey, John Carradine, Shirley Temple, Natalie Wood and many others.
We then visited a Navajo "Hogan" which was an above ground log home covered in dirt. Many families throughout the reservation have a traditional hogan on their property and they are a way to connect to the past for each family. A woman demonstrated rug weaving, wool carding and corn grinding. Navajo wool carpets are truly a "work of art" which may take an entire year to weave and sell for $5000 and up. They are beautiful and each is an original design of the weaver.
It was a beautiful day filled with breathtaking displays of natural beauty but also a day when I learned a ton about Native American culture. I must say I am very envious of their awareness and reliance on Nature and the symbiotic relationship they share with it. But above all I admire how they respect and protect it.
Tomorrow will be a travel day. Plan to visit my dear friend, Father Art in Silver City, NM one more time before I begin my trek home. Will pull over when we both poop out, look for good wifi and try to get caught up on my Travel Blog!!! Silver City is a good distance back into the Sonoran Desert again but I loved it the first time and look forward to hitting up all the good "green chile" joints one more time!! RV needs an oil change and we will work on that over the next few days as well! Much to do!
Tomorrow will be a travel day. Plan to visit my dear friend, Father Art in Silver City, NM one more time before I begin my trek home. Will pull over when we both poop out, look for good wifi and try to get caught up on my Travel Blog!!! Silver City is a good distance back into the Sonoran Desert again but I loved it the first time and look forward to hitting up all the good "green chile" joints one more time!! RV needs an oil change and we will work on that over the next few days as well! Much to do!